"Fruity" thoughts
Asparagus
The asparagus we eat (Asparagus officinalis) is green or white.
Greek in origin, the word, asparagus means a ‘sprout', it's a member of the lily family and related to onions and garlic. It has been commercially grown for over 2000 years.
Green is most usually grown in the UK. On the Continent, white is preferred - this has been blanched; began growing in Italy in the 1600’s.
Bill, from Bills Home Produce Store, tells Gill, it is known as ‘sparrow grass’ and when buying it at the market, if you are ‘in the trade’ you would only refer to it as ‘grass’…
The last word: asparagus was so prized a delicacy in ancient Rome that succulent stalks were picked from where it was farmed on the banks of the River Tiber, then rushed by chariot to the snowy Alps where it was deep frozen for 6 months to last until the Feast of Epicurius (God of (amongst other things) Edible Goodies).
What's special about it??
Asparagus was recommended as an aphrodisiac in 1600’s by the herbalist Culpepper. Apparently he prescribes it ‘’to be taken to stir up bodily lust’’.
If this isn’t enough to make you want to indulge then maybe just the fact that today asparagus is valued as being a healthy, delicious food rich in vitamins and low in calories.
No fat
No cholesterol
Rich in nutrients
High in folic acid
What types are there?
Green Asparagus is sold in several different sizes - Sprue, 6-10mm diameter, Select, 10-15mm, Extra Select, 15-20 over 20mm is classed as Jumbo.
White Asparagus grown on the continent, where very popular. In Germany, 72,000 tons is produced during their 6 week season.
Wild asparagus grows, along river banks in the UK, but most prominently in the Pyrenees. It can be eaten and Bill ( the expert!) tells me that it tastes very Grassy!
When it's best?
Traditionally harvested in the UK from May to midsummer, Asparagus can also be frozen to use year round.
Season stared In April this year, some 3-4 weeks early, as the weather is good.
You only have 6 weeks or so, to eat what is generally accepted as the best tasting…British asparagus! so eat lots!!
What to look for when you buy it?
FRESH FRESH FRESH…..having researched the experts thoughts…all agree cut to table in the shortest possible time, is the only way….so have to say avoid supermarkets if at all possible!
Most importantly, you want to buy firm green and straight spears with their tips intact.
Cost comparison
Green asparagus will vary in price depending on where you buy, but to give you an indication, the white asparagus, if you wanted to try it, can cost up to 10 times that of the green
How to cook …1click2cook.com has a great selection of recipes…try the free 6 day trial and see for yourself.
The thinnest Sprue can be served raw in salads.
There is no need to peel green asparagus, but the white variety has to be peeled before cooking.
It can be eaten hot or cold
Cooking Fresh Asparagus
Allow approximately 100g of asparagus per person.
Before cooking wash the asparagus and then snap or cut of woody end.
Three suggested methods of cooking asparagus are as follows:
Steaming Method
Lay the lightly salted asparagus flat in the top of a double steamer over boiling water. Cover and steam for approximately 10 minutes.
Boiling Method
Tie the asparagus in bundles of 10-12 spears, using soft tape to avoid damaging the stems. Stand the bundles upright in a pan of lightly salted water so the stalks cook in the water and the tips in steam. Cover the pan and simmer gently for approximately 10 minutes.
Microwave Method
Arrange the spears in a baking dish and add 2 fl oz (60ml) water. Cover tightly and microwave on HIGH for 5-6 minutes. Allow to stand for 1 minute, then drain.
What to eat with it generally?
Raw, trimmed and sliced on the bias, with a crunchy salad
WHEN HOT;
Butter and black pepper…garlic if you are eating with your partner!
Hot or cold:
Creme fraiche
Olive oil..infused
Olive oil and lemon
Balsamic vinegar
Saved pecorino or parmesan
Smoked salmon
Poached egg
Pasta
How to eat it….WITH YOUR FINGERS IF POSSIBLE!!
Keep it by?
Wrapping the ‘woody' stalk ends in damp kitchen paper and keeping in the coldest part of the fridge; it will stay in perfect condition for 2 or 3 days.
Bill suggests storing in a jar or vase with the stems in water.
Left in a warm place the asparagus will keep on growing even after it's picked and become stalky and eventually bitter.
Freezing Asparagus
When purchasing asparagus for freezing look for stems with tightly formed heads and avoid thin or woody stems. Blanching is necessary for long storage (up to one year); for short storage, asparagus can be frozen unblanched. Prepare spears as usual, by washing well and snapping off any woody stems.
Blanching
a) Traditional – plunge spears into a large pan of boiling water: thin stems for 2 minutes, thicker stems for 4 minutes. Drain and rinse in cold water to prevent further cooking. Drain and dry on paper towels.
b) Microwave – put spears in a heavy-duty freezer bag in the microwave and cook on HIGH for 2 minutes, turning over half way through.
c) Freezing – place blanched asparagus on a flat tray and cover with cling film. When frozen, repack in individual containers or packages. Small quantities can be frozen directly in containers.
Cooking From Frozen
a) Traditional – Asparagus from the freezer tends to lose its texture and therefore requires more care when cooking. You must allow for this when using frozen asparagus in recipes assuming the use of fresh asparagus.
When cooking from frozen, use a large flat saucepan or deep frying pan so that the spears do not bend or break during cooking. Boil in lightly salted, boiling water for 5-8 minutes depending on the thickness of stem. Drain and serve.
b) Microwave – Place the asparagus in a microwaveable flat dish. If cooked directly from the freezer, allow 10 minutes to the pound, with 3 tablespoons of water. Stand for 5 minutes.
Why grow it?
Only consider this if you have stacks of patience and love to give it!!
It takes about 3 years to establish the plants and early cutting will ruin it’s chances. However, IF you do take the time, you can cut from the ‘crowns’ for up to 20 years!
Suggested websites:
Michael Bourne
Buy from:
New Park Farm Kiosk…on the main road to Groombridge, by East Grinstead junction
Macknades Faversham
The HopShop, Shoreham
The Railway Farm Shop, Wingham
Broadditch Farm, Southfleet
NO TIME TO SHOP……Farm Fresh Express Delivery Service, can deliver
Bill’s produce Stores in Lewes and Brighton
RECIPES….1click2cook.com has a great selection…..
Pasta Salad with Horseradish Cream, Asparagus and Air Dried Ham
1 Bunch Asparagus Spears
Serves 4
250g Air Dried Ham
1/4 Pint Cream or Creme Fraiche
1 Dessertspoon Horseradish & Cream
500g Pasta - Penne or Fusilli
Cut the asparagus into strips 2-3cm long, then steam for 3-5 minutes.
Meanwhile cook the pasta and cut the ham into thin strips. When ready, drain the pasta and add the cream, horseradish, asparagus and ham. Season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with chopped chives and serve hot.
Asparagus, wild garlic, poached egg and hollandaise
Hollandaise sauce has a natural affinity with asparagus and poached eggs. This would make a lovely light supper dish or Sunday brunch.
Serves 6
20g/3/4oz unsalted butter
2 handfuls of wild garlic, washed
A pinch of sea-salt
Freshly ground black pepper
18 asparagus
6 organic free-range eggs
2tsp white wine vinegar
For the hollandaise
1tbsp finely chopped shallots
75ml/3fl oz water
20ml/1fl oz white wine vinegar
A little freshly ground black pepper
4 egg yolks
250g/8fl oz unsalted butter, melted
A drop or 2 of lemon juice (omega)
Start by preparing the wild garlic. Place a pan over a medium heat, add the butter and, when melted, add the garlic; then cook, stirring frequently until soft. This will take around 40 seconds or so. Season with pepper and a small amount of salt and set aside in a warm place.
For the hollandaise sauce, place the shallots, water, vinegar and a small pinch of ground black pepper in a small saucepan. Bring to the boil, turn the heat down to a simmer and reduce to approximately 2 tablespoons worth of liquid. Pour into a bowl, allow to cool slightly and then whisk in the yolks. Return to a very low heat and whisk until thick and smooth. Remove from the heat and pour in the melted butter very slowly, whisking continuously to form a rich, thick homogenised sauce; season to taste (it will need salt) and finish off with the lemon juice. Set aside while you finish the rest of the dish.
For the asparagus, place a large pot of well-salted water on to boil. Prepare the asparagus by snapping off the woody ends. Pour enough water in a separate saucepan to poach the eggs in. Add a pinch of salt and the vinegar. Once the water is boiling, crack in the eggs one by one and poach for about 3 minutes. Remove and drain on paper towels. Plunge the asparagus into the other pan of water and cook for 1 minute.
To assemble, place the warm, wild garlic on a plate, followed by the asparagus. Sit the poached egg on top and spoon over the hollandaise sauce. Serve quickly while still warm.
Asparagus, pancetta and rice soup
This is a lovely, filling spring soup. Served with a simple salad, it would make the perfect light lunch dish.
Serves 4
3tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 red onions, finely diced
200g/7oz cup of white rice (I use the Spanish variety known as Calasparra)
1 litre/13/4 pints of good-quality chicken stock
100ml/31/2fl oz water
4 slices pancetta, or smoked bacon
10 asparagus, trimmed of woody ends and chopped into small pieces
35g/11/2 oz Parmesan cheese, grated
A medium bunch of finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Warm a tablespoon of olive oil in a saucepan large enough to hold all the ingredients. Add the onions and a pinch of salt and sweat slowly for 10 minutes (you don't want the onions to brown). Once the onions are tender, add the rice and stir to coat well in olive oil. Pour over the chicken stock and water, and bring to a simmer. Cook until the rice is nutty in texture, but tender - the broth should be cloudy and taste slightly sweet from the onions. Now add the asparagus and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Pour in the remaining olive oil, Parmesan and the finely chopped parsley. Season generously with freshly ground black pepper and a little sea-salt.
Asparagus with Romesco and crème fraiche
This makes a lovely light starter. I allow 5 asparagus per person. Romesco is a sauce that hails from the Catalan Coast - it is slightly labour intensive but well worth the effort.
Serves 4
For the Romesco sauce
12 blanched almonds
12 hazelnuts
2 tomatoes, peeled and ripe (or 2 tbsp good-quality bottled tomatoes)
100ml/31/2fl oz extra-virgin olive oil
1 whole red chilli (the Ancho variety if you can get hold of one)
2 cloves of garlic
1tbsp good-quality sherry vinegar
1tsp sweet-smoked paprika (I prefer Spanish to Hungarian) (omega)
1 thick slice of chewy, peasant-style bread (such as ciabatta)
Sea salt
For the asparagus
20 asparagus
Enough water to cover
A good pinch of sea salt
2tbsp crème fraîche
1tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
A few drops of lemon juice
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Start by roasting the nuts in a medium oven, 180C/350F/Gas4 for 3 minutes to colour them slightly, then roughly pound them until you have a paste. Next, place the tomatoes on a baking tray and drizzle with a dash of olive oil. Place in the oven along with the whole chilli, and roast for 10 minutes. Remove and mix with the nuts. Next add the garlic, sherry vinegar and paprika, and mix. Blitz the bread in a blender until you have crumbs, lay them on a baking tray and bake until golden. Add to the nut mixture, pour in the remaining olive oil and season. Stir well to combine.
For the asparagus, place a large pot of water on to boil and season liberally with salt. While the water is coming to the boil, prepare the asparagus by snapping off their woody ends. Drop into the boiling water and cook for a minute. Drain and dress with the olive oil and lemon and a little sea-salt and pepper. Divide among 4 plates, or one large plate if you prefer. Divide the crème fraîche between the plates and sprinkle the Romesco over the top. Serve immediately.
Salad of raw white and green asparagus, mozzarella and anchovy and mint dressing
I think I almost prefer the flavour of raw asparagus to that of cooked. Its flavour is somehow purer and its texture is crunchy and nutty. White asparagus can be hard to find and its ferociously expensive, so leave it out if you prefer - the salad is just as good without it.
Serves 4
5 white asparagus
5 green asparagus (or, if you're not using white, 10 green)
4 balls of buffalo mozzarella
For the dressing
4 anchovies
12 mint leaves
1tbsp of good-quality red wine vinegar
4tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
salt and pepper
Wash, pat dry and trim the asparagus. Snap off their woody heads and slice on the bias into long, fine slivers (it is important that they are as fine as possible). Set aside.
Place the anchovies and the mint leaves into a pestle and mortar and pound thoroughly into a paste. Pour in the vinegar and stir well, Next add the olive oil, season generously with freshly ground black pepper. Spoon over the asparagus and toss well with your fingers to combine. Divide the mozzarella between 4 plates, pile the asparagus alongside and drizzle over a little more olive oil. Serve immediately.
